We are staying in the Hat Kata region of Phuket, Thailand for its surfing areas. The beach has lush soft sand and tourists are few at this time of year. However, the first thing that I noticed were the monstrous waves and the fact that Nevil wanted me to go surfing in those waves.
So here goes my first attempt at surfing. In the beginning = mostly a fail. I had an 11 foot board which was more than twice my height. It was also a burdensome beast to lug around the beach looking for good waves. Maybe I was just deluded about surfing but my biggest shock was that the most difficult part is not standing up on the board. Oh no, it is actually getting your board past the waves and white water so that you can ride the board back to shore. MUCH easier said than done when I am itty bitty and facing monstrous waves and riptides (did I mention that?). All this while strapped to a damn heavy floating device twice my size. To avoid being pushed around like a rag doll in a washing machine, I have learned the following after much pain and misery:
- When in the water, the tip of the board should ALWAYS point in front towards the ocean
- When you get over a wave (congratulations!), instantly plant your feet down again or else you will be pushed back a few meters. The meters you strained to achieve over 30 minutes time.
- When not trying to get over a wave, dig your toes into the sand to avoid drifting away
- Be fearless
I got the hang of getting myself and my board over the waves after a while but past the 3 foot waves close to shore were the 4-5 foot waves further out which were as scary as an angry baboon. When I saw walls of water rise above and break above me, I got a good perspective on how truly small and powerless I am to the forces of nature. Then I went limp and got thrown about before returning to the surface to cough up salt water. These wipe-outs were generally when I felt disheartened and rode the water back to shore. I suppose the best advice would be: Be fearless. Don't give up.
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